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Review of Main Street Bar & Grill by Solano Magazine |
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Main Street Bar & Grill's upstairs bar
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Solano Magazine
December-January 2008
Charles Neave
In the last few years, the Suisun waterfront has acquired a solid reputation for good, affordable restaurants. But what was lacking was a place that served food taken to the next level—fine dining that’s still casual enough to fit into this town-in-transition. Now, with the arrival of the Main Street Bar and Grill at the corner of Solano and Main, the wait is finally over.
Anyone familiar with the Vacaville fine dining scene will know the venerable Old Post Office restaurant in the historic downtown. And perhaps they will recognize the name Soo Song, who is the owner. If so, they will be delighted to know that he is the owner and executive chef of this new Suisun restaurant. Folks from the Napa Valley will be equally pleased to learn that his Chef de Cuisine is Jason Siebels, formerly of the ever-popular Bounty Hunter in downtown Napa. Both have brought a steady hand to an ambitious undertaking, and if recent visits and word-of-mouth are any indication, it seems to have paid off.
After spending two months on renovations it is open for business. Lunch and dinner are served every day except Monday in both the dining room, with its wall of comfortable banquettes and cozy alcoves, and at the full bar upstairs, which boasts a fine example of century-old craftsmanship on the centerpiece—the long polished wood bar itself.
So how is the food? In almost every case, quite good. For instance, even though I am not a big fan of calamari I have to say that the version here ($8.95) could make a believer out of me. I have also grown tired of the ubiquitous tuna tartare, but if it is on the menu as a special (Market Price) with a sublimely spiced poke sauce, do not hesitate in ordering it. It is a revelation. The same goes for the lobster bisque when offered (soup of the day $3 a cup, $5 a bowl). Oysters on the half shell ($8.50) are a bargain when the quality is taken into account, and Dungeness crab cakes with mango salsa and fresh corn kernel polenta ($8.95) are another example of new life being breathed back into an often neglected dish.
In fact seafood in general is done very well, and in my experience any dish with prawns in it, especially the fettuccini with tiger prawns in a white wine lemon cream sauce ($16.50 lunch/$19.50 dinner), is going to be first rate.
Not in a seafood mood? The homemade duck pate on garlic croutons with a baby spinach salad ($7.95) would be my runaway first choice for a starter. At lunch I have enjoyed both the Niman Ranch burger with a subtle yet satisfying aioli ($10.50; $12 with cheese) and the grilled chicken breast with jack cheese and avocado on whole wheat ($9.50). All sandwiches are served with soup of the day or fries. There is also a wide array of healthy and filling salads. Of the lot I would have a hard time choosing between the ahi Nicoise salad ($13.50) and the sautéed prawns and mangos over a spring mix ($13.50).
At lunch, carnivores can opt for a braised Australian lamb shank ($17.50), one of my favorite dishes on the menu (and on the planet). At dinner try rosemary marinated rack of lamb ($26.50), the tarragon sauce is a wonderful enhancement; it adds rather than distracts.
If I had a single negative to mention it would be the inclusion of orange roughy on the menu. This is a fish that, regrettably, has been fished to near extinction. Its absence would be a plus on an otherwise well-designed menu. Better to stick with the salmon and tilapia, which are both currently sustainable species.
Desserts are both whimsical and excellently constructed, and many are large (and rich) enough for sharing.
Mixed drink prices are very reasonable and there is a nice selection of after-dinner cordials, cognacs and brandies. There is also a comprehensive wine list with bottles in every price range and a listing of wines by the glass that is very fairly priced (Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais is $7.50). During my visits service has been friendly, efficient and knowledgeable without exception. Yet one more reason to enthusiastically support this new star on the local dining horizon.
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